The food of the poor that became a delicacy: how oysters achieved success and why they are so loved

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Today, oysters are a symbol of gastronomic luxury and a must-have item on the menu of all prestigious restaurants. They are served on an ice bed, with a slice of lemon and a glass of white wine. But this was not always the case. The journey of the oyster from cheap food for the poor to a delicacy is a story full of unexpected twists and turns. In this article, we will tell you how the oyster made its way from the mud to the princes and who first decided to try it.

Back to the past

It is difficult to name the specific person who came up with the idea of eating oysters. It happened thousands of years ago, back in the Stone Age. Archaeologists find giant dumps of oyster shells all over the world — from the coast of Europe to Japan and North America.

For ancient people, oysters were the perfect food. They didn't need to be tracked down or hunted for long — they just lay on the shore, attached to the rocks. And unlike mushrooms or berries, they couldn't poison you.

The ancient Romans elevated the consumption of oysters to a cult. They didn't just eat them, they learned how to breed them. For example, the merchant Sergius Orata in the 1st century BC became famous for creating the first oyster farms in artificial reservoirs in history.

The Romans valued oysters for their unusual taste and considered them an aphrodisiac. Oysters were delivered to Rome from the most remote corners of the Empire, frozen in snow or preserved in special brines. It was one of the world's first delicacies, available only to the elite.

Are oysters food for the poor?

After the fall of the Roman Empire, oysters lost their status for a long time. In the Middle Ages and up until the 19th century, they were considered food for the poor in Europe and America. There are several reasons for this:

— Incredible abundance. Oyster beds were huge. For example, at the mouth of the Thames and off the coast of the Netherlands, their stocks seemed inexhaustible.
— Cheapness. Oysters were so cheap that even the poorest sections of the population could afford them. In England and France, they were eaten like chips are today — just like that, on the go.
— Food for workers. They were consumed in huge quantities by workers and builders, as they were a filling and affordable source of protein. Historians believe that oysters were fed to the workers who built the famous cathedrals and infrastructure of London and New York.

In Victorian England, oyster kiosks lined the streets of industrial cities. They were sold by the dozen, like fast food. After the meal, the shells were simply thrown on the ground.

A turning point: how oysters became a luxury again

With the development of industry, waste flooded into rivers and seas. Oysters, as natural filters, passed all the dirt through themselves, which made them dangerous to health. Major epidemics of typhoid and cholera in the 19th century were often linked to the consumption of contaminated oysters.

In addition, oyster beds, which had seemed inexhaustible for centuries, began to be depleted. By the end of the 19th century, the population of wild oysters in Europe and America had declined significantly.

Suddenly, oysters went from being a widely available product to a delicacy. Their prices skyrocketed, and now only wealthy people could afford them. However, the crisis gave impetus to the development of modern oyster aquaculture. Technologies for the artificial breeding of mollusks in controlled clean waters appeared. Thus, the oyster came full circle, returning to the tables of the aristocracy, but under new conditions.

The secret to popularity

Why oysters, and not some other shellfish, have become a cult dish:

— Complex flavor profile. The taste of oysters is not just “fishy.” It is a complex cocktail of different flavors that varies depending on the species and habitat. You can taste sweet, nutty, coppery, metallic, or even cucumber notes. The taste of an oyster from Normandy will be radically different from that of an oyster from South Korea.
— Texture. Delicate, firm, sometimes creamy, sometimes crunchy, but always unique.
— Umami. This is the fifth basic taste (along with sweet, sour, salty, and bitter) — deep, rich, leaving a long aftertaste and a feeling of “coating” on the tongue. Oysters are rich in glutamates, which cause umami.

How to eat oysters properly in a restaurant

Oysters are always served alive on a large platter with ice. The shell should be tightly closed or close immediately when touched. This is the main sign of freshness.

Classic accompaniments for oysters are a slice of lemon, mignon sauce (vinegar sauce with shallots and pepper), grated horseradish, and pieces of rye bread. Some people prefer to eat oysters without anything else to enjoy their pure flavor.

How to eat oysters in a restaurant:

— Take an oyster in your hand (with a special fork or just your fingers). Drizzle a few drops of lemon juice or sauce on it.
— Bring the narrow edge of the shell to your mouth and silently suck out the contents. You can use a special small fork to help you, but the classic way is to “suck” it out.

The ideal drink to accompany oysters is a dry, acidic white wine, such as Chablis, Muscadet, or champagne. The acidity and minerality of the wine perfectly complement the taste of the oyster.

It is impossible to give a definitive answer to the question of which oysters are the most delicious — it is a matter of preference. Among those most appreciated by gourmets are New Zealand Bluff Oysters, Hasansky, Irish Tia Maara, as well as French Fin de Claire and Marennes Oléron.

Facts about oysters that will surprise you

— They form ecosystems. Oyster reefs are “underwater cities” that are home to dozens of species of fish and crabs, and also serve as natural breakwaters that protect the coastline.
— Oysters are natural ocean purifiers. They filter up to 200 liters of water per day, separating plankton and impurities. That is why it is so important that oysters are grown in clean waters.
— An old fishing rule says that oysters should only be eaten in months with the letter “r” in their name (September through April). This is due to their breeding season in the summer (May through August), when the mollusks become milky, less tasty, and catching them harms the population. With the development of aquaculture, the rule has become less relevant, but many gourmets still adhere to it.

Looking for a place to try high-quality seafood? Come to any Lambic restaurant! We will be sure to recommend a good beer or wine to go with it — our drinks menu features labels from all over the world. See you soon!

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